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Iaround our fifth Kölsch we begin to grasp the idea of Cologne’s constitution. We are sitting inside Päffgen, one of the traditional breweries that produces the pale yellow beer unique to the German city. It comes in small straight glasses (apparently it loses its buzz quickly) and every time one is emptied another is delivered by a waving waiter crank, or a round tray that seems to defy gravity. The replacement process continues until you place a beer coaster on top of your glass to signal that you’ve had enough.
I imagine my limit of four is just the beginning for many of the drinkers who filled the room, but we soak up the booze with traditional dishes of pork schnitzel, roulade and – for the vegetarians – three fried eggs with fries, all of which are declared delicious. if not for the healthiest food.
Cologne, Germany’s fourth largest city, is less than four and a half hours from London by Eurostar and the connecting Ice train, a fact that surprises many. Berlin is another four hours away, but all in all, it’s a million miles away from Cologne with its extremely laid-back reputation. This attitude is reflected in its unofficial constitution, Kolsche Grundgesetzwith aphorisms such as Et es wie et es (It is what it is) and, fittingly for the occasion, Drinkste ene met (Come on, drink something).
We are based in Qvest Hotel, in a neo-Gothic building in the Belgian quarter that once housed the city’s archives. Located in a quiet square – opposite the charming fourth century Saint Gereon Church – its sweeping stone staircase and Gothic-shaped arches and windows are the perfect backdrop for its ultra-cool art and furniture, from the Eames chairs to Pietro Derossi’s bright green Pratone on the chaise longue. Solo travelers also win with fun single rooms in the attic.
From here, most attractions are within a 30-minute walk. There’s something to be said for smaller cities if you only have 48 hours to see it all.
We could even visit its main landmark and return to London that evening. It’s not often that you step out of a central station and immediately see one of the most important cathedrals in Europe. Arriving in Rome Termini, you will have to walk about an hour to reach St. Peter’s Basilica, while in Paris, Notre Dame is a 40-minute walk from Gare du Nord.
On the UNESCO list Cologne Cathedralthe tallest twin-spired church in the world, rises above the station, a timeless reminder of resilience in a city that was subjected to sustained Allied bombing during the Second World War, including first RAF 1000 bomber raid in 1942. Although badly damaged, the cathedral – which took more than 600 years to build and was completed in 1880 – survived amid a city of rubble, seemingly refusing to bend under the pressure.
It is a short distance from the cathedral Ludwig Museum, home to Europe’s largest pop art collection and an amazing Picasso collection (and a pretty good cafe/restaurant). It is a short walk away Columba, the art museum of the Archdiocese of Cologne, created by Swiss architect Peter Zumthor on recently excavated Roman ruins and the medieval ruins of St. Columba. The building is impressive from the outside, but the inside is breathtaking. Parting heavy full-length leather curtains (a Zumthor signature), we navigate wooden walkways above the ruins that surround Gottfried Bohm’s Madonna in the Rubble Chapelbuilt in 1949 on the site of the bombed church.
The art collection has much of what you might expect – religious icons, a seal room and seal boxes – but also some fantastic contemporary pieces, including one from Andy Warhol’s Crosses series and The Lair, a bronze cast by Louise Bourgeois.
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There’s a professional second-hand shopper among us, so head to Cologne’s vintage shops, which are mixed with mainstream retailers along the city’s main shopping thoroughfare, Ehrenstrasse. This leads to a profitable purchase from I’m reconsideringbut no joy from Vintage revivals this time.
Most of the second day is taken up by traveling to Arp Museum in Rolandsek, 50 minutes away by train, in search of Dada masterpieces, something that Cologne itself lacks, even though the city has been part of the movement since the early 20th century. Hans Arp and Sophie Tauber-Arp’s abstract collages and paintings inspire us on a dull day, although we find architect Richard Meier’s building less appealing.
Even though we think we can do it all, we come home with unfinished business – we went through the cool, multicultural Ehrenfeld district at lightning speed and didn’t manage to find time for Cafe and kitchen. However, as the constitution says: Es kommt, wie es kommt! (It goes as it goes!).
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